Control your whole home with the push of one button!
Map multiple actions to a single button which can be activated within the Alarm.com app or set as a home screen widget on your smartphone. Pre-built scene suggestions can be adjusted and saved, or you can build your own custom scenes.
Try editing the sleep scene for one button control:
Turn out all lights
Lock all doors
Close the garage
Arm your alarm system
You can create custom scenes for any purpose, ilke movie night:
Dim family room lights to 20%
Turn off other nearby lights
Adjust the AC to ideal comfort
Check out the tutorials below for details on how to get started!
Alarm.com Remote Automation through suretyDIY requires the Gold Interactive service plan.
Change of address? No problem! Your system can move wherever you do.
Should you find yourself moving to a new address, and you are taking your system with you, please notify us at customerservice@suretyDIY.com. Please include the following information in your email:
1. Primary subscriber’s name.
2. Existing system street address, city, state, zip code.
3. New system street address, city, state, zip code.
4. New location phone number (if applicable)
5. Any changes to your contact list (if applicable)
6. Date you would like these changes to take effect.
If you would like to place your system on test mode with our central station for up to one week, please include this as well. Remember that you can place your system on test for up to 72 hours and remove your system from test mode by calling our central station directly at 855-348-0367.
Please note any change of billing address when applicable.
If your subscription includes 24/7 monitoring, when you are done installing at your new home, please email us any changes to your security zone list so that we can update our central station records. This will ensure our operators can effectively relay alarm information to authorities.
After installing your alarm sensors and connecting to your suretyDIY Alarm.com account, you will want to test your system. Even if it is an existing system, it is always a good idea to test and verify that everything is functioning as you would expect. There are a number of things a thorough quick test can verify:
Verify sensors are programmed correctly for their use case. For example, opening an entry door sensor with the system armed and the alarm immediately sounds without entry delay. You can investigate programming questions up front to make sure there are no surprises when later using your system.
Verify sensors are in good working order. An existing sensor with a dead battery doesn’t do anyone much good. You want to find any problems in the system components up front. This test will also help determine that any new sensors are installed properly.
Verify any sensors with a low signal strength. Wireless alarm systems are extremely convenient, effective, and inexpensive to implement, but very large homes may require a little extra effort to best centrally locate the controller and make sure sensors farther from the panel have clear communication. If you notice a cluster of distant sensors have a lower signal, a repeater is an easy way to improve performance.
Verify the Central Station is receiving your alarm signals. Not only will you be able to verify all sensors report alarms as they should, setting off the alarm for each sensor will help you learn the system, how it functions, and help develop habits. You will be able to contact the Central Station directly to verify all signals. For the last sensor test, taking your account off of test mode and running through an actual alarm response from Central Station operators will let you know what to expect when an alarm occurs in the future.
Verify that you know all of your account info and passcodes. You will want to be able to easily remember your verbal passcodes as well as user codes at the panel. A full system test will give you experience using the different codes.
Verify that you have notifications set up the way you want. There are a lot of options through your Alarm.com account regarding notifications, with additional options for Gold Interactive subscribers. Creating notifications that are desired will let you easily test these out as you test other system components.
Testing Your System
After you have run your manual communication test, you will be able to log into Alarm.com. At this point you can view your system history easily online.You sensors programmed into your panel will be visible as well. Under Security and Sensors on your Alarm.com account, you can rename any sensors. Note that this will only affect the sensors as they are named in notifications, not the sensor name at the panel. By navigating to Notifications, you can create any additional sensor notifications you wish to test with the rest of the system up front.
Make sure all sensors are installed in their desired locations. Navigate to your system test on your panel.
2GIG: Security – Menu – Toolbox – (enter master code) – System Test.
GC3: System Settings – (enter master code) – System Tests – Sensors Test.
Begin tripping sensors. Keep in mind battery operated motion detectors will require a period of time without any motion to reset (power save feature) so you will want to stay out of any motion covered rooms for 3 minutes before walking in front of them to test.
If you have glass break detectors, depending on the model, it may be easy or difficult to properly replicate the sound required to set it off. Honeywell 5853 detectors, for example, have efficient false alarm protection built in and require much more specific and pronounced sound to trigger. We would recommend using an actual sound recording of shattering glass combined with an impact sound. By comparison, 2GIG GB1 glass break detectors can be tested by stomping and jingling keys.
Note any poor signals reported by sensors in the sensor test. 2GIG 900mhz devices such as the TS1 and Image Sensors will automatically report a signal strength.If you are having trouble with certain sensors or areas of the home, try relocating the control panel to a more central location. If you have questions or need troubleshooting assistance, be sure to visit our forum.
Verify your monitoring account is on test mode with the central station. Arm your panel and trip the alarm with one of your sensors. It is a good idea to test all sensors this way. Make sure the panel responds as you would expect to entry doors, perimeter sensors, and motion detectors. (Motion detectors will only alarm when your system is armed “Away”)
While your system is in alarm state, further opened sensors will also transmit an alarm signal, so setting off the alarm and subsequently tripping the rest of the sensors will still let you verify the signals.
If you do not want to wait for the delay countdown, using your Alarm.com app or web login to send arming commands will verify your commands are going through as well as arm the system immediately without a countdown.
Contact our monitoring station using the information in your welcome email in order to verify all tested sensor alarm signals have gone through.
The perfect device for people looking to make use of an existing hardwired alarm system with a new 2GIG panel, the takeover module supports up to 8 wired zones and translates them into wireless signals.
Installation will be slightly varied based on the existing wired system you have at your location. Some of the common panels you might find are the DSC PC1616 and the Honeywell Vista 15/20P.
What all of them will have in common is a 12VDC battery back-up and charging circuit, AC power, and a number of zone circuits which you will use to translate your wired sensors into wireless signals using the Take-345 2GIG Takeover Module.
A typical takeover module installation will reuse the existing wired alarm panel as the battery charging circuit and the aux power for powered wired sensors such as motion detectors and glass break detectors.
If you ordered your Take-345 along with a panel and service, and suretyDIY pre-programmed your Take-345 into your 2GIG alarm panel, use steps 2-10.
Begin by noting your hardwired sensor zone numbers. This will make naming and programming your takeover module zones a much easier task. If the system is not currently functional, you can always test and determine which zones are which at a later time.
Test wired sensors using the existing system keypad. Determine if there are any sensors that are not currently functioning.
Unplug AC power for the old alarm panel. Disconnect the battery.
Cut and label jumper wires to run between your Take-345 and your old alarm panel. In a typical installation, you will need one conductor per zone and a pair of conductors for 12VDC power.
One by one, remove the wires connected to the Zone terminals on your old alarm panel and splice them together with the appropriate jumpers you made. The Zone terminals may be labeled Z, HI, Zone, or simply by digits 1,2,3 etc. Leave the Common (Ground) conductor from the old sensor circuit wired as is. The Common terminals may be labeled COM, GND, LO, etc.- Your takeover module does not look for any specific resistance value, so any resistors connected to the sensor circuits can be removed if you wish.
Connect your power jumper to the positive and negative Aux power output (constant 12VDC output) of the old alarm panel.
Run your jumpers through a hole in the metal housing of the old alarm panel. Please note the Take-345 takeover module cannot be placed inside the housing because the metal will absorb the majority of its wireless signals.
Connect your labeled power jumper conductors to G and 12V (negative and positive, respectively).
Connect your zone jumpers in terminals 1-8. If you have more than 8 zones, you can splice existing zones in series or use multiple takeover modules.
Power your old panel, battery first, then AC power.
Program your takeover module zones.- Choose a Sensor Type appropriate to the zone. (Interior Follower for motion detectors, Entry Exit for entry doors, etc.)
– Equipment Type will be 2GIG Takeover Module.
– Sensor serial ID will be the following:
Zone 1: Seven digit TX ID on Takeover Module label (always ends in 1).
Zone 2: Same first 6 digits, end with “2”
Zone 3: Same first 6 digits, end with “3”
Zone 4: Same first 6 digits, end with “4”
Zone 5: Same first 6 digits, end with “5”
Zone 6: Same first 6 digits, end with “6”
Zone 7: Same first 6 digits, end with “7”
Zone 8: Same first 6 digits, end with “8″
– Loop will always be 1 for takeover module zones.
– Select a voice descriptor.
– Enable reports and supervision.
– Choose whether or not that zone should chime.
Your panel will reboot once you exit programming, saving changes. When it powers back up, test your system.
Note any zones that do not function as expected. If this is a wired system you have never used before, and you run into issues, please consult our support forum.
A fairly common question posed by security system owners is how they can arm their system while still leaving a window cracked open for air flow. One answer is of course to bypass the zone pertaining to the window you want to leave open, but this is likely undesirable. They may only want to open the window a few inches, or perhaps they want to open multiple windows and do not want all those zones bypassed.
A good solution is to simply add a second magnet to the window. This, however, creates a potential for false alarms if the magnets are randomly applied. The good news is that we can employ some long-lost high school physics knowledge to combat this. We just need to remember the magnets’ polarity and how they affect one another.
Using a 2Gig DW10 Thin Door Window contact and its associated magnets, we have set the magnets a few inches apart as they might be applied to a window frame. In this example the polarity of both magnets is in the same orientation up and down. This creates an attracting force between the two and alters the magnetic field lines.
The sensor in a closed state.
If mounted within 3-4 inches of one another, this creates an area midway between the two magnets where your sensor will register as closed. It also causes the sensor to remain open when mostly but not fully flush with the magnet.
The sensor in an open state.
What this generally means is that you will need to make sure your windows stay open at a very precise point in order to arm and not set off an alarm. The magnets will have less room for error and so must be optimally placed.
Instead, when the magnets are applied with their orientation reversed from one another, a repelling force is created and the field lines adjust accordingly. This orientation will tend not to substantially alter the intended gap of the magnets. If you are looking at installing the magnets within about 5 inches or less of one another, this is the recommended orientation.
Should you mount the magnets further apart than that, the orientation will not have the same effect.
Tilt sensors are easy to install, easy to program, and easy to customize with Alarm.com notifications. A few things should be kept in mind when installing a tilt sensor.
Tilt sensors are susceptible to false alarms due to strong wind gusts rattling the garage door if it is not a very sturdy door.
We generally recommend not to use a Tilt sensor as an alarm sensor. It is recommended to program the Tilt sensor as a non-reporting (local only) sensor. This will still allow you to set up notifications on Alarm.com, however, if you have Sensor Activity Monitoring on your account (10 sensors included in Gold Interactive.)
The tilt sensor requires roughly 45 degrees of tilt to activate. Given mounting the sensor on the top panel of a typical garage door, this requires the garage door to be opened 12-20 inches, give or take. This relatively wide gap is not conducive to alarm purposes, and another reason we suggest using this type of sensor as non-reporting.
Using a reliable wired contact to cover your garage door, you’ll avoid most of the issues of the Tilt sensor option, but there is a bit more that goes into the installation.
Unlike the Tilt sensor, the Wired contact will send its signal after the door moves past the 4532L’s stated magnetic gap, in this case just a couple of inches.
Two garage doors can be independently wired to a single RE201. The RE201 has two on board contact inputs.
A properly installed 4532L is much less likely to false alarm.
Unlike the Tilt sensor, this installation will require some drilling and wiring, though minimal.
If you want to set up your garage as an alarm zone (typically Entry Exit) this is a good sensor option. Using the [Entry Exit 2] option when programming the zone will allow you to set up an entry delay time of up to four minutes.
If you are interested in knowing the state of your garage door, but don’t want to weigh the cost/benefit of dropping what you are doing to drive home and shut it, this is for you. Discover whether or not you forgot to shut it—shut it with your smartphone.
The current state of your garage door will be available through the Alarm.com app as it would be for the previous two options.
Unlike the other options, this does not use a zone on your alarm panel, and does not directly communicate with your alarm.
This method requires an internet connection, unlike your alarm panel. The 828LM gets plugged into your router or switch. The 821LM connects to your Wifi.
Since it does not communicate with your alarm panel directly, you cannot use this method to generate alarm signals. (But you can also add an alarm sensor like the ones above, of course.)
You’ve likely heard the stories: a homeowner hears a doorbell ring and does not answer it, shortly thereafter a burglar kicks in the door or breaks open a window.
It is fairly common knowledge at this point that prior to entry, it is routine that a burglar will directly attempt to survey whether anyone is home. Keep in mind that most of these criminals aren’t looking to get into altercations with homeowners. Knocking on the door and ringing the doorbell just happens to probably be the easiest and most unassuming way of learning whether the home is occupied.
With 2Gig, this is something of which you can take advantage.
If you haven’t the desire or budget to post video cameras around your home, it’s likely difficult in the case of an alarm when you are away from home. How do you decide whether to send the cavalry? Did the cat manage to trip the motion detector? Were the kids supposed to come home early? Regardless the scenario, you don’t have a solid idea of whether or not a break in has actually occurred.
With a wireless doorbell and a single notification created in Alarm.com, you can have a fairly certain knowledge that something is amiss, and that a human presence has caused your alarm to go off. This allows you to respond to your central station dispatcher with confidence, and give them a measure of verification to relay to law enforcement.
If you have determined that a DIY Alarm Monitoring Service is the right fit for you, and you are looking to switch to Surety from another provider, the following steps will help you to get up and running with your service powered by Alarm.com.
First, it’s a good idea to get an idea of the service plan you will want to use. Some considerations include:
Do you want central station 24/7 monitoring?
Do you have Zwave Automation equipment like door locks, lights, thermostats etc.?
Note when any service contract ends with your current provider. If you have a 2Gig system currently but no provider, you will want to find your communications module number. For assistance finding this number, see the video below. Once you have this you can check your module number to see if it is unlocked.
Keep in mind that as of 2015, new Alarm.com accounts cannot be set up with a 2G communications module. This is due to cell carriers phasing out the service.
If your module is unlocked, it is ready for use with another account. If not, there are a couple options.
You can contact your current (or recent) provider and request that your module be released for use with another provider.
You can purchase a new module. Surety has these available through our web store. Any modules used with Surety service will never be locked out. You can use this coverage check tool to determine which carrier is the best fit for you.
If you are coming from a security provider who uses proprietary firmware with their alarm panel, you will need to update the firmware on your panel. Otherwise, you may need to update the firmware for use with a new module. This video will help you find the current firmware on your 2Gig Go!Control Panel.
For the Verizon LTE a minimum firmware version of 1.17 is required.
For the AT&T 3G HSPA a minimum firmware version of 1.9.6 is required.
For 2Gig you can find the necessary update cable and links to firmware here.
If you need help updating the firmware of your unit, you can find instructions in the video below.
Swapping the communications module (if necessary) can be accomplished with help from the following video.
Now that you’re able to switch service, you’ll need to order the service package that best fits your needs. Since Surety is a month-to-month service, you can update or remove the features at any time. Depending on your needs, this package, may include everything for which you are looking in this process. Otherwise see the following service levels. 24/7 central station monitoring is available with these plans.
Once your order for service has been processed, and your equipment has a usable cellular module with compatible firmware, follow the instructions found in the Surety welcome email, which you received after your service order was completed, to log in and start using your service.
Instructions for finalizing your cell connection and setting up Alarm.com can be found here.
Some of the benefits of Alarm.com are the growing number of services and features available to users as well as a constantly refined user interface. To keep track of all of this and learn what your system can do, check the following list of feature descriptions.
Sensor Status: The real time status of sensors chosen for activity monitoring. There is a 3 minute delay between the processing of like signals from the same sensor, so this is real time to down to a 3 minute span, meant to quickly tell you whether you’ve left a window/door open. Motion detectors have a longer delay, but they may also be selected so that you can tell if they have been recently activated.
Sensor Name: Here you may rename sensors with custom descriptions. Note that any changes here are not reflected at your panel. Changing the sensor name here will allow you to customize the sensor name stated in any Alarm.com-generated notification.
Activity Monitoring: Allows for the generation of alerts in real time for when selected sensors open even while the system is disarmed. This allows Sensor Activity notifications to be created.
These selected sensors will show up on the Sensor Status section of your account and app.
The user will specify the alerts they want to receive and how they receive those alerts within the Notifications tab.
Life Safety sensors such as smoke detectors do not have the option for activity monitoring because they are either idle or in an alarm state regardless of panel arming status. Users should create Alarm notifications for Life Safety sensors
Actions Button: From here you may toggle all user codes to become visible, and navigate to new user creation or Alarm.com login management.
Edit User: Each user created can be edited by selecting the Pencil button.
Here you may edit user name (Except Master User), contact addresses, user codes, and equipment access.
Users may be created who have no access to equipment but have contact addresses for notifications and vice-versa.
Here you can also limit the access schedule of the individual if they are not meant to have access 24/7.
Delete User: The trash icon can be used to delete a user outright. This cannot be performed for the Master User.
Device Name: Here you find the equipment present in your Zwave Device Network. You may change the names of the devices on this page. This will not change their naming on your control panel, but should you create notifications for a Zwave device, those alerts will refer to the name you have set in Alarm.com.
Status: This will give you a quick current status of the device, including locked/unlocked state of your door locks, and whether any signal malfunctions are present.
Groups Tab: Selecting this will give you access to grouped light switches so that commands may be sent to all at once. Use the + New Group button to create a group and add the desired lights to that group. **Note that an individual light may be assigned to more than one group, giving you the ability to create switch groups that take advantage of areas of your home. For example, one might create two groups labeled, “Kitchen and Dining” and “Dining and Living Room” using the same switch in both groups allowing either set to be manipulated quickly and both to control the dining room switch.
All Devices: This tab will list out all dimmers and switches installed on your Zwave wireless lighting network individually. You may control them from the “On/Off” commands. You may also select the Pencil icon when hovering over the device name to edit the name. You may also disable remote commands to lights on an individual basis.
Lock Status: Here you will find your locks listed as well as whether they were last reported locked or unlocked. You may remotely send a command to lock or unlock the devices here.
User Codes: User codes for door locks are handled through the same page as panel user codes. Access can be enabled or disabled per user.
Lock Notifications: Alerts regarding user access to locks are created here. You can choose between different triggers, including notifications for when a specific user accesses that lock. This is useful for confirmation when utility or other workers have arrived at your home, or when children return home from school, for example.
Garage Doors: Here, using MyQ integration, you may control your MyQ garage door equipment through your Alarm.com web portal. You may rename doors for notifications and distinction purposes.
Current Status: The upper left corner of your page will show you current status of your thermostat, as well as allow you to remotely change the mode and schedule. It also allows you to manually edit the target temperatures should you not use a schedule.
Heat and Cool Schedules: You can edit your thermostat schedule here on Alarm.com. Saved schedules are transmitted to your alarm panel and stored locally. Activating the schedule through the status box will then follow your saved pattern.
You can set up an automatic override when you arm your panel in Away mode to automatically adjust the schedule based on that status. This can be used to easily limit the HVAC power consumption during times when no one will be home. .
The Smart Schedule Activity Pattern will allow you to see the times when you are most likely to be home and moving around. This uses your alarm sensor activity to calculate best times to adjust your HVAC temperature, allowing you to better set your schedules.
Make sure to save any schedule created.
Extreme Temps: You can use the sliders here to specify temperatures at the high and low end of the typical environmental spectrum which can be used as additional points of reference for alerts and automatic overrides.
Next to the slider you can set a target temperature point alteration which will take effect when the outside temperature is forecast to exceed your extreme temperature set points.
Settings and Alerts: Here you can customize alerts and their recipients with regard to thermostat functions.
While the extreme temp sliders on the previous tab relate to projected outside temperatures, on this tab you may set a temperature threshold which relates to indoor temperature reported by your thermostat. These high and low points are chosen so you are able to set up alerts whenever the room temperature exceeds the low or high set-point, possibly indicating a problem with your heating/cooling system.
The check boxes on the right hand side allow you to customize which alerts you want to have generated and the desired recipients.
Always be certain to save any changes.
Life-Safety Override: At the bottom of the page, if you have smoke or CO detectors in your system, you may select whether or not the detection of either will force shut-off of your HVAC and Fan. This prevents spread of the smoke or gas throughout other areas of the home.
Event Triggered Rules: Create rules based on activity and alarms. This is where you can automate your Lights, Locks, and Security System. Examples are below.