I have the power supply transformers for the Qolsys main panel, the IQ secondary panel and the hardwire translator plugged into a wall socket in the basement, utilizing the previously installed hard wires to send power to all three devices.
As the previously-used direct plugin surge protector was ancient, I installed s small APC UPS with surge protection near the power socket and plugged all three transformers into it. At that time I received a notification from ADC of a power disruption on my iPhone and dismissed it as I already knew that.
What I didn’t realize until 12 hours later was that I never turned the power ON to the UPS!
After uttering “DOH!”, I turned on the UPS.
The Qolsys main panel and the hardwire translater were still working fine; unfortunately the secondary panel screen is black and unresponsive. I fiddled with it and various settings on the main panel attempting to revive the secondary panel with no success. I guessed that the battery in the secondary panel had run down and failed, somehow locking up the computer in the panel. I let the battery charge up overnight, but the panel is still black and unresponsive this morning.
At the main panel, I have delved into the Installer settings and the secondary panel is still listed as “Inactive”. I have attempted to Test, Rediscover or Pair the secondary panel with no success.
So, what can I do to diagnose and fix this problem?
Which version of the secondary panel is it that you have? Is this paired with the Gen 1 Qolsys Panel?
Have you attempted to check a different outlet? Are you using the power supply and original cabling that were included with the secondary panel, with barrel connector, for power?
There should be a reset hole on the back of the secondary panel that can be depressed via paperclip or pushpin. With the panel powered up, you can press the reset button. Does doing so cause the panel to reset?
As the system was installed only two days ago, I’m guessing that everything is current.
I have tested all outlets on the UPS with a multimeter and they all appear to be working properly.
The main panel is on the first floor; the secondary panel is on the second floor. Both 7V Qolsys power supply transformers are plugged into a socket in the basement and connected to the hard wiring installed 28 years ago that went to the old keypads. It is certainly a possibility that something has gone wrong with the wiring up to the second floor.
How do I get the secondary panel off the wall; I would prefer to learn from you than randomly start tugging on it!
OK, I figured out how to get the remote panel off the wall bracket by watching a YouTube video.
I looked carefully and could not find a small hole where I would be able to push a paperclip through to access the button on the circuit board. There is the hole where the barrel connector goes in to provide power, there is a small mini-usb type connector and three “holes” where the mounting tabs are located. The single bottom mounting tab hole has a fine mesh below it, the top two mounting tab holes have a blank circuit board below or white plastic and wires to the speaker on the back.
I’ld be happy to look again if more guidance could be offered as to exactly where the reset hole should be.
Sticker on the back of the remote panel says it is Model QW9104-840.
The above guide was in reference to the older IQ secondary panels for use with the Gen 1. the 9100 and 9101 had a reset hole on the back.
The 9104 secondary does not have a master reset on the back, i believe that the only way to master reset the panel is through UI. I will check with Qolsys if there are additional troubleshooting that can be done. I will follow up here with more info.
I have discovered a small hole on the thin right side of the panel (when facing the panel screen), not the rear of the panel; perhaps this is the reset-hole?
Qolsys has confirmed that the pin hole on the right hand side is not for resetting the panel. This was something iwas testing early but couldn’t get to do anything. It apparently serves no function.
Outside of UI there would be no way to reset the panel. I would take a look at the barrel connector at the back of the panel that supplies power and ensure that it is pressed in as far as it will go before re-applying power and testing again.
How many feet of cable is there between the secondary panel and transformer? Are you able to test voltage on the transformer itself, or barrel connector?
I believe that your suggestion of ensuring that the barrel connector providing power to the keypad may have been the culprit.
One of the times I took the panel off the wall a few hours ago looking for the mystery reset hole, I removed the power connector from its socket and pushed it back in again. About an hour later I was back up in the bedroom and was surprised to see the panel working! I don’t recall the barrel connector feeling loose when I pulled it out of the socket, but I wasn’t concentrating on it either.
I had checked all the wire crimps previously and they were tight. The panel had worked fine for 1.5 days, so it was getting power. The wire run from the secondary remote panel to where the transformers are plugged in is about 30 feet and is four-wire 22 gauge, using a pair of wires for positive and a pair of wires for ground.
Is the barrel connector supplying power not being fully inserted in the socket a known issue?
A related question: If the remote panel power wasn’t fully connected and the battery had run down, how long after the power connection was redone and power restored would the screen turn from fully dark to illuminated?
I ask because if it take more the 15 or 20 seconds, I would have been out of the room and down the stairs by that time and would not have noticed the panel coming back to life.
Is the barrel connector supplying power not being fully inserted in the socket a known issue?
Its possible that the barrel connector wasn’t seated properly, or that the barrel connector itself is not long enough, its hard to say. Also depends on how much slack the wire run has, if this was pulled on when swapping the UPS.
If the remote panel power wasn’t fully connected and the battery had run down, how long after the power connection was redone and power restored would the screen turn from fully dark to illuminated?
Did you turn it on via the button at all after re-applying power?
I’d have to do some testing myself as I don’t have a 9104 with drained battery. I’m not sure if the panel will come on automatically, or if turning it on via the switch is required after applying power to a fully “dead” panel battery.
I didn’t even know that the remote panel HAD a button on the side, so if I pushed on it after re-seating the power connector and hanging the panel back onto the wall, it was strictly by accident!
