Glass break detector – heavy curtain

DIY Home Security Forums Design Your System Glass break detector – heavy curtain

This topic contains 40 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by Jason Jason 5 days, 8 hours ago.

Viewing 11 posts - 31 through 41 (of 41 total)
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  • #156076
    Jason
    Jason
    Surety

    Resistace is around 13.6 ohms

    Is that at rest or when triggered? Please test both if possible.

    Not sure what you mean. The connector to the DW10 is a plug.

    Yes, but the other end of the plug wires are bare leads. They are what you soldered to the shock sensor.

    Ultimately when troubleshooting you’ll want to isolate and test each possibility one at a time.

    You said you had tested the 5150 to make sure they activated. You also said that unplugging the DW10 wired lead caused the DW10 to report open. The DW10 appears to be programmed correctly. These three things are good tests and indicate that they should absolutely function, unless the 5150’s wires were shorted or resistance was not sufficiently changing. We are using the same model products and same firmware panel to test successfully.

    Do you have one of the 5150’s and DW10 lead wires that are not soldered together? Please test simply twisting the wires together instead of soldering, do not wrap them, just make sure that the two twisted conductor pairs do not touch each other. Then test the shock sensor. Does it report that way?

    #156240

    redmonkey
    Participant

    We may have solved the mistery. It looks like eventhough the wires were not shorted and the resistance value is basically the same (16 ohms closed with a max of 24 per manufacturer and over a mega ohm when tripped) with and without the soldered wires, somehow it’s interfering with the signal to the DW10. Can you recommend what size butt splice to use? For the last set I did, I used some 26-22 AWG but could not get them to crip tight enough for the small wire on the DW10 connector.

    #156320
    Jason
    Jason
    Surety

    We actually used 26-22 awg. This was what we typically used, if I recall the fit of the DW10 and 5150 wire was rather snug. Needle nose pliers is all that is needed to crimp.

    #156338

    redmonkey
    Participant

    Thanks Jason. Does the type double side tape matter or just the standerd 3M foam type work?

    #156355
    Jason
    Jason
    Surety

    It should be the thin 3m double-sided tape included with the Shock Sensor. If you need to replace just match the thinness if possible. Any double-sided tape should be fine, but given you are looking for vibration, thicker outdoor tape may impact that.

    #180531

    redmonkey
    Participant

    Sorry to revive this thread again, but I still can’t get these guys to work. I did get the correct splices but with the same results as above. Event got a brand new piezo and dw10 and learned them into the GC3.

    I can do an ohm check and see the piezo trip when I flick it with my finger.

    Once learned, it will tamper if I remove the connector from the dw10, but can’t trip it.

    Anything else I can try? A setting in the GC3 to check? (besides the sensor settings). This is pretty frustating at this point.

    Thanks!

    #180793
    Jason
    Jason
    Surety

    Sorry to revive this thread again, but I still can’t get these guys to work. I did get the correct splices but with the same results as above. Event got a brand new piezo and dw10 and learned them into the GC3.
    I can do an ohm check and see the piezo trip when I flick it with my finger.
    Once learned, it will tamper if I remove the connector from the dw10, but can’t trip it.
    Anything else I can try? A setting in the GC3 to check? (besides the sensor settings). This is pretty frustating at this point.

    There is not a lot of variation and there are no additional settings which would need to be addressed.

    One thing you might try is updating the firmware on the Control Panel, just to be certain that is not a possible cause of irregularity. The firmware version currently being run is a bit old at this point.

    To remove all other possibilities and boil this down to the very basics:

    • Take one of the wired DW10 leads, disconnected from the 5150.
    • Twist the leads together. Does the Zone show closed on the panel?
    • Pull the leads apart. Does the Zone show open on the panel?

    If you can open and close the zone by just opening and closing the leads of the DW10 wire, there is 100% no programming reason why the 5150 wouldn’t work the exact same way. That would mean that something in the installation of the 5150 is causing the problem, or possibly the original soldering damaged the 5150 due to heat.

    What resistance change do you see when you test just the 5150 (when you flick it with your finger)?

    #180898

    redmonkey
    Participant

    According to the panel, it does not need a firmware update. Where/how can I download and update?

    Your recommnended test worked as it should. I find it very difficult that ive somehow heat damaged 3x 5150s. The one im using to test right now, was never soldered and was crimpped. This 5150 reads 11.4 ohms when closed and open when flicked with my finger.

    #180926
    Jason
    Jason
    Surety

    The firmware update files and release notes can be found here.

    The newest firmware files are at the bottom.

    Can you try these after the firmware update?

    #180932

    redmonkey
    Participant

    Thanks! I’ll take care of the update this p.m. How long does it usually take once the USB drive is inserted?

    Slightly off topic….what do you guys recommend for a glass break sensor? The GB1 doen’t have the best reviews.

    #180933
    Jason
    Jason
    Surety

    Firmware updates via USB usually only take a few minutes. 5-10 maybe.

    The GB1 is a solid choice for glass breaks, but it is not perfect for every scenario because it is not as false trigger resistant and does not have sensitivity levels.

    The Honeywell 5853 is a good alternative, with selected sensitivity setting and better false trigger reduction.

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