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Support › Glass break detector – heavy curtain
September 10, 2018 at 12:38 pm #154160
No, polarity does not matter connecting them to the DW10.
By chance are you using the Sensors Test feature on the GC3? As an aside we have noticed severe inconsistency with the Sensors Test feature in the past on the GC3 panel.
The best way to test sensors is to test under normal alarm conditions. Place your account on test mode with the central station if you have 24/7 monitoring, and then arm your system.
Trip the sensors by tapping with the screwdriver handle on the pane. If the sensors learned in via activation this way and are programmed as Loop 1, you should have no problem activating them.September 10, 2018 at 1:01 pm #154170
Good to know on polarity.
Can’t remember the exact sequence but it’s with the the “walk test”. I’ll check when I get home. Hopefully thats the case.
No, I learded it by tampeing the DW10s.September 10, 2018 at 2:22 pm #154190
Yes, Sensors Test and Walk Test are the same function.September 10, 2018 at 3:16 pm #154209
Is learning the sensor by tampering the DW10 different than learning it by triping?September 10, 2018 at 3:44 pm #154210
The process is functionally the same. You just need to make sure you select the correct loop number for that sensor.September 11, 2018 at 10:21 am #154293
I put the system in test mode yesterday. I still cant get either one of the glass break sensors to trip.
Does the fact that if I disconnect the piezo from the DW10, I get a sensor open status on the GC3 mean anything? Same if I tamper the DW10, I get a glass break sensor tamper message.September 11, 2018 at 10:41 am #154301
Does the fact that if I disconnect the piezo from the DW10, I get a sensor open status on the GC3 mean anything?
That would indicate that the sensor should be programmed correctly. As a normally closed circuit, opening it by disconnecting the wires should trip the sensor.
Is the glass you are testing laminated?
Can you post a photo of how you have the 5150 sensor installed on the window?September 11, 2018 at 7:09 pm #154412
Far as I it’s just a standard sliding door made by Milgard. Here’s two pictures of the installations.
Attachments:September 11, 2018 at 8:58 pm #154421
Here’s the other picture.
Attachments:September 12, 2018 at 9:03 am #154463
Just out of curiosity, how were the wires spliced? You mentioned you soldered them. Are the soldered leads individually wrapped with tape then taped together? If there is bare metal touching under the tape from one lead to the other then the circuit is shorted and cannot open unless you physically disconnect the wires from the sensor. I would check this first.September 12, 2018 at 9:46 am #154472
Wires are shrink wrapped individually then together.September 12, 2018 at 5:45 pm #154551
Unless the wires are shorted the sensors should be functional based on what I see.
How forcefully are you tapping on the window? Obviously it doesn’t take too much force, but it is certainly possible to tap too lightly.
Try tapping near the sensor as well instead of the opposite corner, just to verify that you have functionality.
Note that it looks like chime is turned off for both of those sensors, just in case you are trying to test while the system is disarmed.September 24, 2018 at 11:24 am #155924
So I had sometime this past weekend to do some testing. This is what I found:
As mentioned by Jason on a previous post, the piezo is a normally closed sensor. When it is tripped it opens and triggers the alarm.
Both of the sensors I have, while disconnected can be triggered on the bench by a light tap. It was confirmed by checking continuity with a Fluke meter. This leads me to believe that it is not a wiring issue with the piezo.
If I then reconnect and then disconnect it to the DW10, I get an open message on the panel. This leads me again to believe that they are configured correctly.
The issue is when the piezo is connected to the DW10 it does not trip no matter how light or hard I tap or hit it (I actually broke one).
Have you guys actually tried one on the GC3?
Any other suggestions?September 24, 2018 at 12:03 pm #155932
Have you guys actually tried one on the GC3?
Any other suggestions?
Yes, I can confirm there are no issues. If the wired shock sensors themselves function properly, there is no reason the sensor should not work aside from:
1. Programming issue
2. Wiring short/resistance
3. DW10 or 5150 sensor malfunction
What is the resistance value you see when the sensor is at rest and what does it jump to when triggered?
As far as sensitivity goes you can typically get one to go off by even just holding the shock sensor by the wire and flicking it with your fingernail. Does it work if it is done this way?
To test the DW10, just take a set of leads that plug into the DW10 and hold the exposed wires together, then pull them apart. Does the state of the zone change when you just close and open the circuit manually like that?September 24, 2018 at 11:11 pm #156046
I’ve attached a couple of more pictures of how this particular sensor is programmed.
Resistace is around 13.6 ohms
I have tried 3 different DW10s and 3 different 5150.
Didn’t get a chance to flick it, but will.
Not sure what you mean. The connector to the DW10 is a plug.
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