GE Concord 4 to SuretyDIY

Hello,

I’m looking to migrate my Concord 4 hybrid system to SuretyDIY and would really appreciate some help.

  1. Software version: Here are some photos of my current system that was professionally installed in 2014. Is there a way to confirm what software version I have?

  2. Communication module: I’m currently using landline for communication with the central office. For SuretyDIY/Alarm.com integration, I would need the 600-1053-4-ZX-VZ Verizon CDMA module (prefer VZ over ATT). Looking through the Interlogix website, I see now that they have an LTE version (600-1053-LTE-VZ).

Should I get the LTE version instead of the 3G version? Are there any practical benefits in using the LTE version? (Future-proofing, speed of communication, reliability…)

  1. Zoning information: Will all my sensors and zone setup information be preserved after migrating to Alarm.com/SuretyDIY?

  2. Access credentials: I only know one user code that we use to arm and disarm the system. I don’t know the “installer” or “master” code. Will this be a problem?

  3. Migration sequence: I’d like to minimize downtime during the transition. Should I purchase a SuretyDIY plan prior to canceling my current alarm contract? If I currently do not have a cellular communication module, is it possible for SuretyDIY to simply take over the system after I’ve disconnected the landline connection and installed the new cellular module? (Is there something I need to do in order to “unlock” the system for you to take over?)

  4. Central monitoring: Can you provide a little bit more background on the monitoring service you provide? Do you outsource this to a third party, or is this your own operation? Is there a service level guarantee?

I sincerely appreciate such a wealth of information on your site and thank you in advance for your guidance with the transfer.

Happy to assist!

If you are looking to switch to suretyDIY you will find this page very helpful as it lays out the bulk of the process with a Concord 4.

Should I get the LTE version instead of the 3G version? Are there any practical benefits in using the LTE version?
Future proofing would be the biggest benefit of 4G over 3G but 3G isnt going anywhere anytime soon. Be sure to use the Coverage Check Tool to find out which carrier is best for your area.
Will all my sensors and zone setup information be preserved after migrating to Alarm.com/SuretyDIY?
Yes, your sensors programming will be preserved when connecting to Alarm.com
I only know one user code that we use to arm and disarm the system. I don’t know the “installer” or “master” code. Will this be a problem?
You may want to contact your current provider to see if they will give that number to you. The default installer code should be 4321
Should I purchase a SuretyDIY plan prior to canceling my current alarm contract?
You will need an unregistered Alarm.com 3G or better cellular module in order to sign up for service through suretyDIY
Central monitoring: Can you provide a little bit more background on the monitoring service you provide?

We use Monitoring America or AvantGuard depending on your service location.

Keep in mind we offer the Basic Interactive and Gold Interactive service plans.

You may also want to look at General Policies and Most Common Questions

Thanks for the quick and very helpful reply!

I’ll try to get the installer code from the current provider. If, for whatever reason, I can’t get the installer code from them, will suretyDIY be able to access my panel (using the new unregistered cellular module) and default the installer code? (I remember seeing it mentioned in one of your forum threads.)

My original installer was bought by a competitor and I’m not sure if they will be cooperative…

Thanks!

Yes, once connected to service and your panel is communicating with Alarm.com, you can request to have your installer code defaulted. You can make any change request using our secure message tool found here.

Thank you, Tyler and Jason, for the guidance and suggestions. The transparency you bring to this business is quite refreshing.

I called my current service provider and asked for the installer code. He refused, saying he cannot give that out. After asking several times over the last couple of days, he said they would have to come out to default the code and charge for a service call. Unbelievable, isn’t it. I asked him what happens when I sell the house and the new owner wants to use the panel, which he owns. He said the new owner would need to buy a new panel!

This last back-and-forth with them made me even more determined to get rid of them asap. I will purchase and install the cellular module, physically disconnect the landline currently being used for monitoring, and sign up with suretyDIY.

Thank you.

We cannot speak to the policies of other dealers, but we do understand the frustration if you wish to take the system more into your own control. We are of course happy to assist!

Thanks, I’ll reach out as soon as I’m ready.

On a separate note, I had a quick question about using the Alarm.com cellular module’s Z wave capabilities. I currently don’t have a smart home hub (e.g. smartthings, wink, hue). Would I be correct in assuming that the new alarm.com cellular module will serve as a hub for Z wave devices (I’m thinking mostly GE wall switches), essentially eliminating the need to buy a separate hub?

That would make the purchase of the cellular communicator even more attractive! Also, based on my limited research, it seems that Z Wave devices need to be physically close to each other for reliable connectivity. My Concord4 panel is in the basement mechanical room, and I’m thinking of placing the cellular module right on the other side of the wall from the Concord4 panel (so the cellular module is on the inside of the basement common area rather than inside the mechanical room). If I want to install a Z Wave light switch in my master bathroom on the 2nd floor, will I need to place additional Z wave devices on the 1st floor to relay the signal? And to add the light switch, will I be able to simply install it in the 2nd floor bathroom first, then try to pair with the hub? (I read that the initial adding of a z wave device needs to be done close to the hub, but the light switch cannot be powered until it’s in the wall, so I was confused…)

Thank you.

Would I be correct in assuming that the new alarm.com cellular module will serve as a hub for Z wave devices (I’m thinking mostly GE wall switches), essentially eliminating the need to buy a separate hub?

Yes, the Alarm.com cellular module in the case of Concord 4 panels would house the Z-wave radio. Compared to touchscreen systems, the local setup is very simplistic with just a programming button and flashing led indicators for feedback.

With Alarm.com however, the intention and vast majority of features are through using the mobile app and Alarm.com website.

Automation rules are created on Alarm.com. Direct remote control of devices is through the website and app. With Concord, there is no local control.

My Concord4 panel is in the basement mechanical room, and I’m thinking of placing the cellular module right on the other side of the wall from the Concord4 panel (so the cellular module is on the inside of the basement common area rather than inside the mechanical room). If I want to install a Z Wave light switch in my master bathroom on the 2nd floor, will I need to place additional Z wave devices on the 1st floor to relay the signal?

That’s not a bad plan, keeping it further from groupings of metal objects will improve signaling for Z-wave.

Yes, by comparison to wireless sensor RF, Z-wave has a relatively short range. Z-wave is a Mesh Network, meaning that the more repeating Z-wave devices you have, the wider your network range and stronger the network.

And yes, for the best results you’ll want repeating devices between Z-wave nodes separated by more than 20 feet typically. A lot of signaling boils down to what materials it needs to pass through, so house layout and construction have some impact. In general though, large metal objects have the most impact.

Typically any AC powered Z-wave device will repeat signals (so pretty much all switches).

And to add the light switch, will I be able to simply install it in the 2nd floor bathroom first, then try to pair with the hub? (I read that the initial adding of a z wave device needs to be done close to the hub, but the light switch cannot be powered until it’s in the wall, so I was confused…)

Great question! Yes with Concord there is less flexibility than with a Go!Control panel where you can simply run it on battery and bring it to the devices.

As long as you have a cellular module with Z-wave radio and firmware v177+ (which should be any new module purchased) your Z-wave radio will support Network Wide Inclusion. This allows devices to learn in even if they cannot directly reach the panel by letting the learning commands repeat across nodes.

To use Network Wide Inclusion, make sure to install and learn in the closer devices first, that way the further ones have repeating devices to boost their signal when trying to pair them to the panel.

Thanks to your guidance, I’ve placed an order for the Alarm.com VZ LTE communication module and will report back after attaching it to the Concord4 panel.

I’ve also started planning Z-wave device (light switches and dimmers) locations around the house, and was wondering whether I should be buying Z wave PLUS devices (e.g., GE 14291, 14294) or the older Z wave classic devices that are shown on the Alarm.com Products website. In theory Z Wave Plus devices should be backward compatible to the old Z Wave Classic standard, but I was wondering about the following:

  1. Is the Z Wave controller in the Alarm.com cellular communication module (INTERLOGIX/GE 600-1053-LTE-VZ) Z Wave Classic or Z Wave PLUS? I assume it’s the old one.

  2. Will the cellular module still work with Z Wave PLUS switches and dimmers?

  3. Will I benefit from the longer range of the Z Wave PLUS devices even when the controller is Z Wave Classic?

Thank you as always.

The Concord does not use Z-wave Plus, I believe any module would be Classic.

Z-wave Plus devices are all backward compatible with classic controllers and repeaters, so you wouldn’t have to worry about compatibility, but yes, you would lose the overall benefit and range of Z-wave Plus devices without a Plus controller.

Thanks! So, now I have purchased the Verizon LTE communication module and have come across some more noobie questions related to installation.

  1. According to the installation guide, the LTE module can be located up to 40 feet from the panel using 22/4 wire. 3 of the 4 conductors (Black, Green, White) should be no problem, but the red conductor that came included with the module is very short and comes with a fuse. Is it okay to connect my own red wire to the included red wire? Can I simply use a twist-on wire connector to splice the wires?

  2. The 12V battery in the main panel already has a red wire connected at the red terminal coming from the panel. How do I connect the red wire from the cellular module to the battery when the terminal is already used? Is there a terminal adapter that lets you make two connections?

  3. Lastly, the guide says to use 22-gauge or larger wire for connection, but my main panel is in the basement and it will be very difficult to run a new wire to the first floor (for better cellular coverage). I already have unused Ethernet cables (Cat5e or 6) run behind walls between the main panel location and several rooms around the house, and was wondering if I could use one of the Ethernet cables to make the connection. The idea is to use 3 conductors for GND, A and B, and maybe use 2 conductors twisted together to supply power (Red). Will that work?

I feel I’m making progress and truly appreciate your help.

Is it okay to connect my own red wire to the included red wire? Can I simply use a twist-on wire connector to splice the wires?

Yes, you would just splice on your cable. A wire nut should be fine.

How do I connect the red wire from the cellular module to the battery when the terminal is already used? Is there a terminal adapter that lets you make two connections?

Yes, it is included in the cellular module hardware pack. If memory serves it is a side-by-side two spade connector adapter.

if I could use one of the Ethernet cables to make the connection. The idea is to use 3 conductors for GND, A and B, and maybe use 2 conductors twisted together to supply power (Red). Will that work?

Yes, CAT5 is typically going to be 24AWG, and doubling up the conductors, since there are 8, would effectively increase the gauge. Simply using 2 conductors for each wire would work within 40 feet, according to documentation. I believe two 24AWG conductors would equal slightly bigger than 22AWG.

Thank you so much for the quick and clear directions! Your hand-holding has been critical in my attempt to do this DIY.

Your hand-holding has been critical in my attempt to do this DIY.

You are asking smart questions prior to installing an unfamiliar device. That’s not hand-holding, just good preparation.

Besides, we are happy to help out.

With your help, I was able to install the cellular communicator using a pre-wired CAT5! I just placed an order for the Gold Interactive subscription and submitted the serial number of the cellular unit. Once I’m activated, I assume I’ll receive further instructions?

Also, during install, I completely disconnected the phone wires (all 4 Telco terminals: GRN, BRN, GRY, RED). Now the keypad is showing an error message. Will this go away once the Alarm.com unit is activated?

Thank you.

Once I’m activated, I assume I’ll receive further instructions?

Yes, you will receive a Welcome to suretyDIY email with connection instructions and steps to get started with Alarm.com once the account is processed by our team.

Also, during install, I completely disconnected the phone wires (all 4 Telco terminals: GRN, BRN, GRY, RED). Now the keypad is showing an error message. Will this go away once the Alarm.com unit is activated?

No, the error message would be due to the panel having prior account/Central Station phone numbers programmed in.

You would need to remove those in programming. See the installation manual here.

Check in System Configuration under Phones. Make sure that CS Phone numbers are removed.

I also need the installer code defaulted. Should I request that separately from the suretyDIY/Alarm.com connection process?

As for removing the existing CS Phone numbers, should I do that after suretyDIY takes over my panel and new service activated? (Or do I need to remove the CS phone numbers before you can activate the new service?)

In general, once I’m activated with suretyDIY/Alarm.com, will I be able to perform panel management functions (adding and removing sensors, renaming zones, configuring alarm rules, etc.) all through the Alarm.com app? Ideally, I’d like to completely avoid using the keypad for any system configurations.

Thank you.

I also need the installer code defaulted. Should I request that separately from the suretyDIY/Alarm.com connection process?

For a Concord, yes, simply send our team a secure message requesting it to be defaulted when you are connected.

As for removing the existing CS Phone numbers, should I do that after suretyDIY takes over my panel and new service activated? (Or do I need to remove the CS phone numbers before you can activate the new service?)

After is fine. It has no impact on the cellular module.

In general, once I’m activated with suretyDIY/Alarm.com, will I be able to perform panel management functions (adding and removing sensors, renaming zones, configuring alarm rules, etc.) all through the Alarm.com app? Ideally, I’d like to completely avoid using the keypad for any system configurations.

Yes and No.

You cannot change system configuration parameters or add and delete sensors on Alarm.com. This must be done at the panel keypad. You typically don’t need to do this very often. The more frequent activities are done through Alarm.com:

You can rename zones in Alarm.com, but those will not sync with panel names, it will just change what you see in ADC notifications, etc. All Z-wave automation rules and controls are through Alarm.com. You must add devices locally at the module, but it is just a one button process that doesn’t use the keypad.

Likewise all Notifications are set up on Alarm.com. All users can be set up through Alarm.com.

Thank you - I successfully removed CS Phone numbers in Programming. Now the keypad does not display the error message anymore, but when I log into alarm.com, the orange “Issues” box still shows “Panel Phone Line Failure.” Will this go away soon?

Also, I was able to add my first Z-wave device (light switch) to my network. In the Alarm.com web interface, is there a “Rules” tab in the top navigation structure? In the emPower tab, I only see Thermostats|Lights|Locks|Garage|Water|Devices, and the Lights and Devices sub-tabs don’t have Rules, either.

I was able to somehow find a backdoor into Rules via Profile > Feature Usage, but this seems to be a convoluted path to scheduling. Besides, now that I have one Rule set up, the “Set Up Light Schedule” choice is no longer clickable. I must be missing something…

I’m seeing the rules options on your account. Login to Alarm.com and click emPower. Rules is a link between water and scenes.

As long as you do not have a phone line failure active, yes the alert should clear. I do still see it as a status on ADC. Do you have a second number in programming? Check to make sure phone 2 and 3 are empty.

EDIT: Actually we sent a few status update requests and the phone error is now acknowledged and removed.